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PAGE C2 ' THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 2,1995 SMORGASBORD WORDS ON WINE Too many wine& spoil Chateaw Pick of the weak: Buy the Beringer Meritage White 1993, Knights Valley, by the case. Its blend of 51-percent sauvignon blanc and 49-percent semillon is ripe, fresh, juicy, mildly herbal and grassy, and it finishes with exquisite balance. About $9 a bottle. Before setting down these notes on recent releases from Washington's megalith winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle, I went to the computer to see what I had said about its wines for the past four years. The result is a big Hmmmm. I rated one wine exceptional and one wine excellent, 15 very good, 12 good and 6 poor. Seems to me those scores are a bit bot- tom-heavy; it's not exactly a curve of which Miss Bridger's plane geometry class would have been proud. Generally^ red wines scored better than white, except for the winery's Cold Creek Vineyard FREDRIC KOEPPEL Wine critic Chardonnay 1992, which was one of my Best Wines of 1994. Since it was bought by U.S. Tobacco in 1974, Chateau Ste. Michelle has grown exponential- ly. With facilities in the Yakima and Columbia valleys, Chateau Ste. Michelle is Washington's largest wine producer, turning out close to 750,000 cases a year in a variety of grapes and styles. Perhaps too many grapes and too many styles, So many of \Ctrateau- Michelle's wines are bland and generic that one has. tp,-wonder what would happen4f;tlii^cvv;meiy eliminated half its labels; and concentrated on yfftsA, .;.$$ ', does best, cabernet aau^ignp;ttji. : char- donnay and sa^yigjpio*Hl!i)0nc,. , Two new rieslingsi illustrate the problem. The iCHa|eati ; Ste. Michelle Dry Riesling $9,4)? Col- umbia Valley, present a fteshy clean bouquet, and in the mouth it's pleasant and innocuous. You wait for something else to occur, and nothing floes, The Chateau Ste. Michelle Johannisberg Riesling 1994, Columbia Valley, smells ripe, hinting at peach and pear fruit, and it tastes slightly sweet, but, again, the sensation stops there. Couldn't the winery have put more into this lackluster wiHiiHEach about $7. Three chardohnays, however, display good winemaking and lots of character. There's nothing shy about the Chateau Ste. Michelle Chateau phaylS^^£lQl umbia Valley; it's a big, viscous wine, with pure, rich, juicy pineapple-grapefruit flavors, a touch Of tropical fruit, good balance and acid, hints of smoke and caramel and suppie oak. Ex- cellent and my favorite of this trio. About $26. Burnt sugar and butterscotch pour from the Chateau Ste. Michelle Canoe Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay 19,93, Columbia Valley, but the wine actually needs more body and structure; though it shows lots of spice and tasty fruit, it lacks balance and integration. Good. About $30. Its stablemate, the Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vine- yard Chardonnay 1993, Colum- bia Valley, is, another,big, ripe, burnt-sugar-style chardonnay, more focused and balanced than the Canoe Ridge example, displaying smoky high notes and flinty low tones. Excellent. About $19. The Chateau Ste. Michelle 4 1993. Columbia_Vallev, was disappointing, though The winery often does a goqid jojb with the grape. This version i^kft;glirj as merlots often are, uttering its pleasantries with hjnts of ber- ries, a sheen of oak and a gloss of dried herbs. Sounds pretty de i cent, but then something sharp appears at the top of the arc, and the wine turns rough. Good* About $16. Much better is the Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon 1992, Columbia Valley, beginning with a beautiful dark, ruby color and a bouquet featuring intense rasp- berry and plum scents touched with oak and vanilla; in the mouth, the wine is fairly stout with bark and brambles but not enough to/ conceal vivid cherry- • black currant flavors. It doesn't \reveal much complexity, but it has great amalgamation. Very good. About $14. Now for two blockbusters, which, like some Victorian man- sions, are imposing without being xlistmguisheck • You can srnell the density of Chateau Ste. Michelle Iiidian ..,41s; Vineyard Mirlot 1992, Columbia Valley, a wine that defines darkness in every aspect; though it ;opens with a clean, bright bouquet, it quickly drapes across the tongue with tides of dust and tannin and concen- trated bark and bite. Where's the fruit? It may have potential after two or three years. Very good. About $30. Big, sleek, slick and oaky define the Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 1992, Columbia Valley, which over its unyielding structure displays a layer of dried herbs, caraway and crushr ed walnut shells. This is serious stuff, dense and concentrated without offering the balm of a voluptuous texture or ripe fruit. Perhaps time will tell, as in five to eight years. Very good. About $26. (FratVk Kaappal wrttat thli Sciippf Howwd N*wi Sarvlca column wa«My for Tha Commar- clal AppMl In Mamphli.) „ . Sweet potatoes are delicious made in the microwave By WOODENE MERRIMAN Pittsburgh Post-Gazette Have you tried microwaved sweet potatoes? A few jabs with a fork, a few minutes on high, and the sweet potato is done. Now what could be easier? Try it and see for yourself. Use either sweet potatoes or yams; b^oth are readily available at this time of year, and both are an excellent source of vitamin A. One sweet potato (depending on size) will be soft in about five minutes in the microwave; two will require six to 10 minutes, etc. Peeled, cut-up sweet potatoes require longer cooking times. Basic baked sweet potatoes 4 medium sweet potatoes, washed 4 Tbsp. butter 1V2 tsp. sugar y« tsp. ground cinnamon Pierce sweeT potatoes several- times with fork. Place in spokelike fashion on paper towel in microwave. Zap on high 12 to 14 minutes, until potatoes are soft when you squeeze them. (Rotate potatoes a couple of times during the microwaving.) Let stand 5 minutes. Slit potatoes open. Put 1 tablespoon butter in each to melt. Mix sugar and cin- namon and sprinkle into potatoes. Serves 4. Sweet Potatoes and Apples 4 medium-size sweet potatoes, microwaved^as- above) until soft 2 medium-size tart apples (such as Granny Smith) peeled, cored and cut into VA -inch rings V2 cup brown sugar V2 tsp. ground cinnamon Vi tsp. ground nutmeg V2 cup chopped walnuts 4 Tbsp. butter, melted Peel potatoes. Cut into V2 -inch slices. Arrange alternating and overlapping slices of sweet potatoes and apples in 2-quart rectangular casserole. Combine sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and walnuts it small bowl. Sprinkle over sweet potatoes and apples. Drizzle with butter. Cover with Cranberry bread nice for holidays Ottowoy Naws Sarvlca SALEM, Mass. — Cranberry Nut Bread is a colorful and festive addition to any holiday meal. Make now and freeze until needed. Before serving, thaw completely, then warm in the oven at a low heat. Cranberry Nut Bread 2 cups flour 1 cup sugar 1V2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. salt 1V2 tsp. baking soda Grated orange rind and orange juice from 1 orange 2 Tbsp. shortening legg 1 12 oz. package fresh cranberries Vt cup chopped nuts Grease a 9-by-5 inch loaf pan. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium sauce pan, mix together flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and baking soda. Stir in orange juice, orange peel, shortening and well-beaten egg. Mix until well blended. Stir in cranberries and nuts. Spread in a greased loaf pan. Bake for 55 minutes. Yield: 1 loaf. • wax paper. Microwave on high 10 to 12 minutes, rotating dish one-quarter turn after 5 minutes. Let stand, covered, 2 minutes. Serves 6 to 8. (Source: \Glorious Vegetables in the Microwave\ by Patricia Tennison) Spiced Sweet Potatoes 2 lbs. sweet potatoes 3 /A cup skim milk V2 tsp. ground cinnamon Vi tsp. ground cardamom VA tsp. ground ginger Vi tsp. freshly grated nutmeg Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Scrub potatoes and prick in two or three places with a fork or tip of a knife. If you have two large potatoes, place them on a white paper towel, evenly spaced in the oven. If you have three or four potatoes, arrange them like the spokes of a wheel. Microwave on high for 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft. Peel, then mash in a potato ricer or beat with electric mixer. Add milk and spices and beat until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serves 4. Variation: Add 2 tablespoons honey or brown sugar for Sweet and Spicy Sweet Potatoes. (Source: Adapted,.from \Good Health Microwave Cookbook\ by Carl Jerome) Wooden* Murlmon li Hi* author of \Zap H Again,\ featuring no n than 400 way* to m your microwavo. To ardor, und your nam* and addmt and a chock for $10.07 ($8.50 plui $1.57 for poitag* and handling), payable to th* Pittsburgh Pott-Gautto, to Zap K Cookbook, Box 476, FttHburgh. Pa. 15230. Allow two wo*k* for aotlvory. Scripp* Howard N«wt Sarvlca Fast Foods Cooking with your microwave 846-7990 Announces Karaoke dfib SPECIAL EFFECTS Thurs. 9pm-? Sing & Dance To Your Favorites Thursday Nile is THURSDAY IS SENIOR CITIZEN DAY SPECIAL DINNERS S 6.95 From 4 p.m. Roast Turkey Beef Brochette Calve's Liver Chopped Liver Broiled Ham Steak Chicken Croquettes _ Broiled Ocean Perch Special of the Day Includes: Soup or Salad Mashed Potatoes or Rice Vegetable of the Day Feature Dessert Coffee, Tea 561-5140 5 miles So. of Plcrttsburgh on Rt. 9 Gala Celebration of the Arts sponsored by the Nortfi Country Baflet Ensem&fe - Nov. 4, 1995, 7:00PM Hors D'oeuvres, Desserts and Cash Bar City Hail Rotunda, Everting Attire Tickets avaiCa6Ce at CounciC on the Arts or at the door — — — — — — -COUPON Corner of Rugar St. & Military Turnpike, Plattsburgh CONVENIENCE CENTER •**«.\«» BUY 1 MEDIUM, LARGE OR SICILIAN PIZZA AND GET ONE OF EQUAL VALUE FOR Fat In tfKtfwi^dl YOU CAN Cai/ '' IHI^ CALL AHEAD Or Take Out •^p^pf&r 563-3786. Milton Tidewater's Fancy Expensive Newspaper-Ad... •— - ~ \Mainely Lobster is now open in our new location. I understand you need directions so - go up Tom Miller Road til u see Vic Juberts cows - put on the brakes and look to your right..TheyahWeBe.\ Mainely Lobster & Seafood Corner Military Turnpike & Tom Miller Rd. fust Dial \Lobster\ 562-7837 WOULD LIKE TO GIVE THANKS TO OUR CUSTOMERS/ JUST BRING IN THESE COUPONS AND SAVE\ Offor good only at thaaa locations: SKYWAY SHOPPING CENTER 303 CORNELIA STREET CHAMPLAIN CENTRE PLATTSBURGH, NY Oiler expires November 26,1995 Liml m coupon per OBtmr t* wH Not good wit my oft* food edit. No subsltmions, plBsi. ksii retention nfcis: 1/100$. Offer good only at lhasa locationa: SKYWAY SHOPPINQ CENTER 303 CORNELIA STREET CHAMPLAIN CENTRE PLATTSBURQH, NY Otltr expires November 26,1995 Offar good only at tjiasa location*: SKYWAY SHOPPINQ CENTER 303 CORNELIA STREET CHAMPLAIN CENTRE , PLATTSBURQH. NY Oiler expires November 26,1995 UHlt*! fKffp Not {pod wit) Jjny ortwfowj offer. ortargboaoniyaiinaaaiocBuorii SKYWAY Sl*Crt»W*»<* eeNTEH 303 CORNELIA STREET CHAMPLAIN CENTRE PLATTSBURQH, NY. Offer expires November 28,1995 J
